The following is a list of things you may do when someone brings you a sick plant. By following these steps, you should be able to determine the cause of the problem. Once the problem is identified, you will be better informed when making corrective recommendation.
- First -If at all possible, knock the plant out of the pot and check the root sys tem. A large number of plant problems are associated with root problems.
- If the roots are white and penetrate throughout the soil, the root system is most likely not the problem. You would know to check for other possible causes if the roots appear healthy.
- If there are only a few roots and the plant has been in the container for several months, then a root or media problem most likely exists. Usually, root growth is slowed when the media is kept too wet, is poorly drained, or has insuffi cient porosity (air space).
- If the roots are black and rotting, then either root rot or a too wet condition exists. In some cases, roots may have a whitish color and still be poor roots. This can be determined by grasping a root between the thumb and fingers of each hand and pulling. If the surface pulls away and leaves only the stele (central root core), then the root is not functioning. This is caused from too much water or root rot. If something is not done soon, the plant could die.
- If the roots are wrinkled and twisted within themselves, the soil probably has too much fertilizer residue (excessive salts) in it. High salt levels will pull water from the roots causing them to wilt or shrivel from the loss of water. In severe cases, the roots will be shriveled completely. This shriveling occurs when the soil is moist. If the soil is excessively dry, the shriveling could be caused totally from the lack of water.
- In some cases, the tips of the roots may be brown, yellow, or burned. Again, high soluble salts may be the problem. If this is the case, several thorough water ings with pure water may flush enough of the salts from the soil to allow the roots to recover.
- Second - Ask the owner about the plant. Questions like how often and how much they water will be clues to solving the plant's problem. Learning the fer tilization schedule will also be helpful. Remember, most people over-fertilize as well as overwater more often than they underfertilize and underwater.
- Third - Ask about the humidity. Plants require a humidity level of 60 to 80%. In most homes and offices that have central heating and air conditioning, the humidity runs much lower than that. Symptoms of insufficient humidity include: drying of the leaf edges, wilting or drying of the growing tips, and/or a failure to grow at all. Some plants may even change to a lighter or pale green color when the air is too dry.
- Fourth - Ask about the light that the plant has been receiving. Plants should not be kept in direct sun. If the newer, fully expanded leaves are smaller than the older leaves, and if the plant is getting long and lanky, more than likely the plant is not getting enough light. If the bottom leaves are turning yellow and dropping from the plant, not enough light is the cause. Watch for sunburn on the leaves, especially in the early spring. Many times the plants may have been set out-of-doors while not adjusted to the increased amount of light. Sunburned leaves have a burned appearance or a silvery color.
- Sunburn can also occur in the winter when plants are left near windows. The sun is lower in the sky during the winter months. Plants inside near windows may not receive direct sun in the summer because the sun is higher in the sky and the roof overhang shades the window. In the winter, the sun is lower in the sky and may actually shine through causing sunburn.
- Fifth - Ask the owner about any spraying he has done, especially to control in sects and diseases. Many chemicals that are recommended can burn the plant if applied at the wrong rate or if applied when the temperature is too high. Also, some pesticides may damage certain plants while safe to use on others.
- Remember, too, that many pesticides come in convenient aerosol sprays. If held too close to the plant while spraying, these sprays can actually freeze part or all of a leaf or leaves. Such freezing will appear as a burn.
- Sixth - Check the underside of the leaves where most insects feed. Because most people only look at the upper leaf surface and many insects are small and hard to see, insect problems often go undetected. Look for light-colored foliage where the insects have sucked the plant juices. Also, check for malformed leaves or leaves that have a bronzy color. These could be caused by aphids or mites.
- To detect very small insects, strike the leaf or branch on a clean sheet of white paper. Very small insects will appear as specks of dust crawling about. Rub your hand across the paper. If you see red or green streaks, insects are present and treatment may be called for.
- Seventh - Ask as many questions as possible. The more you learn about the plant and its environment, the better diagnosis you will be able to make. More than likely, the plant owner will tell you what he has done that could cause the problem.
There are many things that can happen to a plant to cause certain symptoms. The following information will describe many troublesome symptoms that interior plants have, along with a list of some of the possible causes of these symptoms.
If you carefully consider what treatment the plant has received, you should be able, by elimination, to determine what is causing the problem. Once the cause is determined, you will be better able to make a corrective recommendation.